Saturday, January 5, 2019

RETURNING IN THEIR PLACE - A Personal Ireland-Scotland Journal


Day 9
We are heading for Glasgow today which will require the resources of a ferry boat. In spite of the current peace treaty, one can still feel a bit of tension in Belfast, and Northern Ireland as a whole, as evidenced by the presence of war murals on the sides of buildings, and the Catholic and Anglican areas of town. Somewhat like living in East Berlin before the wall came down, and the tension of that sort of environment; at least for a citizen of a western nation.

On a side note, it is a bit strange for me to be in a province “ruled by,” if this is the correct phrase, a monarchy, and to be distantly related to the Queen’s grandchildren, and her daughter-in-law, Diana, before that. Nonetheless, I believe royalty to be so much cow manure in a chef’s salad.

Resuming our tour, we left the Stormout Hotel, and drove back through the center of Belfast; passing murals which refreshed both sides of the conflict, and mentally visiting the propaganda of each of the antagonists. One mural on the Catholic side of the wall depicted Bobby Sands who died of purposeful starvation after about 70 days in the confines of his prison cell.

Speaking of walls, we drove past rows of walls that contained spikes on top which dated to the pre-1998 era, and had never been removed. At one point, we stopped by a set of murals which had to do with women’s rights. Our driver allowed us to get out and view them “face to face.” And since hundreds of people had left graffiti on the murals, including slogans and autographs, I signed our names with a ball point pen before re-boarding the bus. (Perhaps I will stand there again one day and view the faded remains of our names).

We culminated this part of the journey by stopping at the Europa Hotel for a bathroom visit. Strangely enough, or so it seems to me, anyone is allowed to walk in off the street and use their restrooms.

We are now preparing to board the ferry for the grand old land of Scotland. I commented to Diane MacDonald that, no doubt, we were both excited about seeing the country in which our ancient origins lay.

As we prepared to board the ferry, our tour guide allowed each of us to share what we liked most about the trip thus far. I said that I especially like the Giant’s Causeway, but that my wife “went nuts” when I climbed two of the stacks of stone. Another fellow said that he could identify most with the stud farm, and referenced his wife as his favorite mare of all time! (LOL). One lady shared that she had seen the name of one of her ancestors on the Titanic’s manifest; who had apparently drowned in that accident.

As I write these words, we have both boarded the inter-nation, 670 foot long ferry, along with our tour bus, and our belongings, for a 2.5 hour passage to my 3x great Grandfather’s ancestral homeland. Although Isham was, apparently, born in what is now Northern Ireland, his parents were Scottish. So very poignant to have been in the country in which my ancient grandfather lived, and which he, to my knowledge never saw again. His heart was in Ireland. My own in Scotland; the land of his forebears.

Jean and I just went out on the promenade deck and experienced the chill of the Irish Sea, and I can tell you it was colder than any area we have visited on this tour.

The food of choice on this short voyage seems to be sandwiches, and having just eaten one, I found it to be more bread than ‘guts,’ and cost a grand total of seven pounds, (or about $9).

In retrospect, hearkening back to something I witnessed several times in Belfast (and, subsequently, Edinburgh), we saw young men seated on the pavement, with their backs against a building, and with blankets over their laps, and legs, and holding a sign about their homeless condition, and with a cup in their hands. None of them ever said a word, (nor did they ever stand in the medians of streets, as they do in America), but they were obviously hoping for a coin or a bill. Our local guide, who as a counselor works with the homeless, told us that there is plenty of work available, and these boys had the wherewithal to earn a honest living, if they would just “give it a whirl.”

We are about halfway through our voyage across the Irish Sea, and there is the sensation of movement, and a change in direction. I am looking forward to Scotland, and the Isle of Skye appeals to me the most. While I had contacted a distant relative, “Ronald MacDonald,” (yes, that’s his name) a Stewart (and possibly McDonald kinsman) of mine about the possibility of meeting him in Skye, he wanted me to drive the 30-45 minutes to his locality, rather than vice versa. We were only going to be there overnight so I made him aware that this was not feasible. He ignored my final response, and I never heard from him again. Perhaps I will meet some Stewart relatives who might conceivably work at our hotel on the island, or own local businesses there.

To add a bit of color to this page of my overseas journal, a few members of our group were just talking about the failure of teachers in this day and time to teach cursive handwriting. And I turned to one of the participants in the discussion, and informed her that as a counselor who takes copious notes, I had taught myself to write left-handed, my non-dominant hand, and as a result my dominant hand’s handwriting was now almost illegible.

And now bold and brave Scotland has appeared about 400 yards to our starboard. From here it looks easily as green as Ireland ever was, and our tour guide promises it may be even more beautiful and compelling than we have seen thus far.

Arriving at the dock we de-boarded by way of the bus, and that right quickly. At this juncture, our driver aimed our vehicle towards Glasgow. On our way we stopped by the Robert Burns Bridge where we posed for a group photo.

On the way back to the bus my wife and I ran across an elderly man, and his six year old Scottish Terrier which answered to the name of “Aston.” Mr. MacIntosh said that he had migrated from Northern Ireland to Scotland when he was a lad of thirteen. (He did sound more Scottish to me). I made him aware of my Irish and Scottish roots, and we chatted for a while.

Leaving the place, we proceeded to Glasgow. As we pulled into the city our guide pointed out a building which looked somewhat like the shell of an armadillo, and said that this was the edifice where Susan Boyle won “Britain’s Got Talent,” (with her wonderful rendition of “I Dreamed a Dream”).

I might say that I experienced a very real and compelling feeling of belonging as soon as I set foot in this land of my father’s ancient fathers and mothers.

On a political note, I was just looking over a Scottish newspaper, and there is not a single word on the front page about The Donald. (How refreshing is that)? But, rather, the focus is on Mrs. Teresa May’s involvement with Brexit, along with a photo of my cousins, Prince William and his two children.

We are in our room now at the Glasgow Hilton Gardens Hotel. (Certainly nothing to write home about. Rather like a Holiday Inn Express).

I have been in thought today about my daughter, Kimberly, who will be undergoing three biopsies tomorrow, and my daughter-in-law, Renae, and the medical tests with which she is also involved tomorrow. May God offer them good results.

After a shower, Jean and I walked over to an Italian eatery, and ordered pork and potatoes, and spaghetti, respectively. The service was deplorable. Not only did it take several minutes for a waitress to appear, twice that amount of time elapsed when it was time to procure our bill. Based on additional experiences in Scotland the Scots are used to extended meals, and speed is not a large factor.
by William McDonald, PhD. Copyright Pending

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